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The Liemba

A VERY SPECIAL SHORT JOURNEY, THE LIEMBA

It was only a three-day trip, oh but what a special one. I had the pleasure and privilege to travel about five hundred kilometers on Lake Tanganyika. This is the longest fresh water lake in all of Africa, 721 Kilometers long. The lake is also home to over 300 species of indigenous fish.

I was traveling on the only ferryboat that covers this section of the Lake. The boat is called the Liemba and is based in Kigoma Tanzania. The boat is 93 years old. It was built by the Germans and was originally used as a warship. It spent several years at the bottom of the Lake, as it was sunk on two separate occasions. The Liemba was then purchased by the Tanzania Port Authority and was put into service as a ferryboat. It sails weekly from Kigoma heading south to Zambia’s only port, Mpulungu and then back to Kigoma. 

The Liemba is the life force for the people living in the small villages along the Lakeshore. Without the Liemba there would be no trading or commerce for these folks. Many of them are fisherman and the boat is the only way they can transport their catch. The fish is taken up to Kigoma where it is sold at the markets. Some of these local chaps have outboard motors on their fishing boats, the Liemba transport the weekly supply of fuel for the motors.

 

I traveled from Mpulungu to Kigoma. As we set off from the harbor, I felt very peaceful. The speed of the boat is slow so one has time to really relax and take in the magnificent scenery. Lake Tanganyika is a Rift Valley Lake and boasts some breathtaking mountains to either side of the lake. I had my own cabin that was facing towards the bow of the boat, so I could witness all of the loading of goods, as we would make our stops. There was café and bar on the boat as well, so I did enjoy a few cold beers.

For me traveling on the Liemba was a real African experience. The majority of the passengers were either locals going back to their village or businessman trading fish and of course I heard some great stories. I happened to be the only non- African on the boat and everyone treated me with kindness. I also went up to the bridge and met the captain a wonderful man from Kigoma.

I would like to extend a warm thank you to Captain Mghamba and his crew for assisting me with my filming and taking great care of me on the journey.

On our last morning about 6:00 am we docked at the port in Kigoma. I said my goodbyes and wondered how long it would take them to unload all of the cargo we picked-up at our twelve different stops!